Tag Archives: RAF

Humbrol paint references for Airfix 1/72 McDonnell-Douglas / BAe Harrier GR7A-GR9A, kit A04050


Humbrol paint references for Airfix 1/72 McDonnell-Douglas / BAe Harrier GR7A-GR9A, kit  A04050
Humbrol paint numbers; paint names; steps,

11; Metallic Silver; 31, 37, 38,
53; Metallic Gunmetal; 6, 9, 11, 13, 14,
56; Metallic Aluminum; 10, 12,

14; Gloss French Blue; 3

24; Matt Trainer Yellow; 1
30; Matt Dark Green;  2
33; Matt Black; 2, 3, 6, 31, 35, 37
61; Matt Flesh; 2
155; Matt Olive Drab; 1
156; Matt Dark Camouflage Gray; 45
159; Matt Khaki Drab; 2

85; Satin Coal Black; 1
130; Satin White; 4, 7, 8, 23, 24, 25, 31, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38,
165; Satin Medium Sea Gray; 2, 3, 4

– – – – – – – – – -========== * # * ===========- – – – – – – – – –

The Airfix instructions provide only Humbrol paint numbers for suggested colors. So I looked up the names and made a table of paints called out in the instructions, indexed by instruction page, construction step and color number. Its below, along with part numbers of what’s painted.

I’ve added some areas *to* color (ejection seat head box, breaking the seat cushion down into three different areas of color, for example) that seem non-controversial. They’re marked by a “- wba”. Airfix is not responsible for my contributions but I felt it was unfriendly to say nothing.

I don’t typically use Humbrol colors, so my next step will be cross-reference to the Polly Scale & Testors Model Master Acryl (II) acrylic colors. And Tamiya and Gunze Sangyo acrylics when they’re the better match.
Then I’ll add my own interpretation what additional areas should get attention. For example, ’24; Trainer Yellow;’ is called out for the parachute webbing/harness on the ejection seat head box. The actual color is a warm golden brown with a slightly metallic sheen- “Bronze” is one description. “Golden brown Martin Baker parachute webbing” would be my choice to name it.

Matt Black and Satin White are far to stark, in my opinion, so something lighter, and distinct, for black plastic, black painted metal, and tires, will be required, as will something duller for landing gear parts and bays, and the engine intake ducting. Stay tuned!

– – – – – – – – – -========== * # * ===========- – – – – – – – – –

Airfix 1/72 McDonnell-Douglas / BAe Harrier GR7A-GR9A
Page;  Step;  Paint;  Name;  Part no.;  Part name

3; 1; 85; Satin Coal Black; 20B 21B; ejection seat sides
3; 1; 85?; Satin Coal Black ;9B; ejection seat head box – wba
3; 1; ?; ;9B; ejection seat head box cushion – wba
3; 1; 24; Matt Trainer Yellow; 9B; ejection seat head box webbing
3; 1; 155; Matt Olive Drab; 9B; ejection seat back cushion
3; 1; 155?; Matt Olive Drab; 9B; ejection seat bottom cushion
3; 1; 155?; Matt Olive Drab; 9B; ejection seat calf cushion

3; 2; 30; Matt Dark Green; 14B; Pilot Helmet, lower garment
3; 2; 159; Matt Khaki Drab ; 14B; Pilot upper garment
3; 2; 33; Matt Black; 14B, 10C; Cockpit side consoles, Pilot Boot
3; 2; 61; Matt Flesh; 14B; Pilot face
3; 2; 165; Satin Medium Sea Gray; 10C; Cockpit bucket walls, floor

3; 3; 33; Matt Black; 3A, 27C; joystick grip, upper and lower instrument areas, left and right.
3; 3; 165; Satin Medium Sea Gray; 3A, 27C; joystick shaft, instrument panel blank faces
3; 3; 14; Gloss French Blue; 27C; CRT faces, left and right.

3; 4; 130; Satin White; 23A, 24; stbd & port forward fuselage nose gear well, Forward fuselage inner intake bulkhead
3; 4; 165; Satin Medium Sea Gray; 23A, 24; stbd & port forward fuselage cockpit sidewall

3; 6; 33; Matt Black; 28B; Engine intake behind fan…
3; 6; ?; ?; 28B; Inside of fan shroud – wba
3; 6; 53; Metallic Gunmetal; 29B; Engine fan – wba – titanium

3; 7; 130; Satin White; 51A, 52A; intake outer liners

3; 8; 130; Satin White; 15B, 3B; Main Gear well

4; 9; 53; Metallic Gunmetal; 23C,  25C; Port, Aft, hot, exhaust ducts

4; 10; 56; Metallic Aluminum; 19C, 21C; Port, Forward, cold, exhaust ducts

4; 11 53; Metallic Gunmetal; 24C, 26C; Starboard, Aft, hot, exhaust ducts

4; 12; 56; Metallic Aluminum; 20C, 22C; Starboard, Forward, cold, exhaust ducts

4; 13; 53; Metallic Gunmetal; 6A; Port, Hot exhaust shield

4; 14; 53; Metallic Gunmetal; 7A; Starboard, Hot exhaust shield

5; 23; 130; Satin White; (Step 5 output); Inner intake duct wall, starter/generator fairing

5; 24; 130; Satin White; 26A; inside of starboard outer intake duct;

5; 25; 130; Satin White; 25A; inside of port outer intake duct;

7; 31; 130; Satin White; 6B, 5B, 25B; Nose gear leg l&r, Nose wheel
7; 31; 33; Flat Black; 25B;  Nose tire
7; 31; 11; Metallic Silver; 6B, 5B; Nose gear leg l&r;

7; 33; 130; Satin White; 10B; Main gear forward door;

7; 34; 130; Satin White; 9C; Main gear leg;

7; 35; 130; Satin White; 26B, 27B; Main gear port & starboard wheel
7; 35; 33; Flat Black; 26B, 27B; Main gear port & starboard tire

7; 36; 130; Satin White; 43A, 44A, 41A, 42A; Nose gear bay port & starboard doors, Main gear port & starboard bay doors;

7; 37; 11; Metallic Silver; 31B, 30B; Outrigger gear oleo struts, port & starboard;
7; 37; 33; Flat Black; 31B, 30B; Outrigger gear tires;
7; 37; 130; Satin White; 31B, 30B; Outrigger gear legs, port & starboard;

8; 38; 11; Metallic Silver; 37A or 38A; Air Brake Hydraulic Cylinder
8; 38; 130; Satin White; 5A inside, 37A or 38A;  ; Airbrake, Air Brake Hydraulic Cylinder;

8; 45; 156; Matt Dark Camouflage Gray ; 23B, 24B; front of fired CRV-7 Rocket Pod.

– – – – – – – – – -========== * # * ===========- – – – – – – – – –

Humbrol paint numbers; steps:

24; Matt Trainer Yellow; 1
85; Satin Coal Black; 1
155; Matt Olive Drab; 1

30; Matt Dark Green;  2
33; Matt Black; 2
61; Matt Flesh; 2
159; Matt Khaki Drab; 2
165; Satin Medium Sea Gray; 2

14; Gloss French Blue; 3
33; Matt Black; 3
165; Satin Medium Sea Gray; 3

130; Satin White; 4
165; Satin Medium Sea Gray; 4

33; Matt Black; 6
53; Metallic Gunmetal; 6

130; Satin White; 7

130; Satin White; 8

53; Metallic Gunmetal; 9
56; Metallic Aluminum; 10
53; Metallic Gunmetal; 11
56; Metallic Aluminum; 12
53; Metallic Gunmetal; 13
53; Metallic Gunmetal; 14

130; Satin White; 23
130; Satin White; 24
130; Satin White; 25

130; Satin White; 31
33; Matt Black; 31
11; Metallic Silver; 31
130; Satin White; 33
130; Satin White; 34
130; Satin White; 35
33; Matt Black; 35
130; Satin White; 36
11; Matt Black; 37
33; Metallic Silver; 37
130; Satin White; 37

11; Metallic Silver; 38
130; Satin White; 38
156; Matt Dark Camouflage Gray; 45

– 30 –

Surface Tension, paint codes, yellow zinc chromate using Tamiya paints, RAAF, Bell, thinning Vallejo & MM Acryl paints


Incidentally, if you enjoy or disagree with or otherwise respond to what I write about I’d love to know it- please feel free to comment, replay, email, post satirical videos on YouTube, etc.

A new week brings a new list of search tags:

Surface Tension & effect on waterbased

Water is a ‘polar’ molecule- that is, the distibution of electrons on the surface of a water molecule is uneven.

http://www.biology.arizona.edu/biochemistry/tutorials/chemistry/page3.html

The single electron that notionally belongs to each of the two hydrogens spends more time over with the one oxygen and less time with the hydrogen nucleus. Result is that the hydrogen nucleus, positive charged, is *somewhat* exposed, and the oxygen atom, having all eight of its outer valence electron spots filled, is *somewhat* negatively charged by the extra time the extra electrons stay there. The contrast with hydrocarbons is marked- hydrocarbons have their carbon atoms surrounded by hydrogens evenly and often symetricly (methane, ethane, benzene, longer, fully saturated ‘enes’.) The result is that the film strength of water next to air is high, while the strength of hydrocarbon surface films is much less. Detergent molecules have a polar end and a non-polar end- they’re long, skinny, things, and one end is very happy in water, the other in hydrocarbons. In plain water, or water based paint, the polar ends co-mingle with the water molecules and the non-polar ends co-mingle with each other… producing a fraction of non-polar behavior- lower surface tension.

The downside of mixing detergent with your water based paint is that detergent dries very slowly, and when dry, can be reconsituted by adding water. So your paint job will be more or less water sensitive, unless you top-coat it.

This surface tension issue is why its even more important with water based paints to emphasise smooth and even coats and not get wound up about covering with one coat. The surface tension is trying to pull the paint you smoothed down into small droplets with the least possible surface area for their volume.

Grey paint, color correcting (“Gray”… … I do the same thing)
Was this about tinting or toning? White and a color is a ‘tint”, black and a color is a “tone”. Adding a gray to a color must have a name, but I can’t think what it is. Mixing colors into gray is as much fun, or not, as mixing any other colors…

WWII Paint Codes
.

See

http://.ipmsstockholm.org/colorcharts/stuff_eng_colorcharts_us.htm

USA: There were a number of paint code and standard systems. For example, the official Olive Drab, for the upper surfaces of US Army Air Corps/Air Force airplanes, was Olive Drab No. 9 before the war, Dark Olive Drab 41 for a time and then Olive Drab ANA 613. Each of these is a different actual color, and the war-time formulations of 613 (and possibly 41) faded quickly, to more than one, distinctive, color.

There is a whole history of what colors were specified before and then by Army/Navy/Air Corps (ANA) numbers and how the standard changed over the years, but the basics are:

Army (Air Corps/Air Force) warplanes were
Olive Drab (No. 9, 41 later, perhaps, ANA 613) over
Neutral Gray. (43, later, perhaps ANA 603 Sea Gray)

Two other colors,Medium Green (42) and
Sand (?, later ANA 616)
were authorized for areas where Olive Drab didn’t do the job.

Azure Blue, ANA 609, was authorized for undersides in the North African theatre.

Medium Green was also used to make splotches on the leading and trailing edges of Olive Drab airplanes, applied to the wings, vertical and horizontal stabalizers and control surfaces, to break up the outline.

Later in the war, no camouflage was required, and natural metal, aluminum dope on fabric surfaces and aluminum laquer in the case of the ultra-smooth P-51 “Laminar” wings, were the standards. Flat black and olive drab were used for anti-glare panels ahead of pilot’s windscreens or in other places the pilot could see their own airplane.

Bronze Green and Dull Dark Green were codified in the middle of the war, 1942-43, for interiors, in addition to the ANA 611 color created as a target for zinc chromate primer to be tinted to with black (and possibly aluminum paste) for UV resistance. A/N 611 paint wasn’t made, as such, primer was tinted by the airframe builders to match the standard to a greater or lesser degree.

Bell Aircraft used a Bronze Green of their own specification throughout the war. Grumman used a light gray of their own specification, similarly.

The US Navy used
USN Blue-Gray, M-485 over
USN Light Gray, M-455, until the end of 1942.

In 1943, the standard for USN airplanes was changed to a 3 color system:
Sea Blue (ANA 606, Semi-gloss, top of flying surfaces, ANA 607, non-specular, top of fuselage)
Intermediate Blue (ANA 608) for the sides,
Flat Insignia White,(ANA 601) for underside of airplane

OR Dark Gull Grey (ANA 621 ) over glossy and flat whites for anti-submarine patrol planes, primarily in the Atlantic.

Late in the war, Navy fighters were specified to be painted overall glossy Sea Blue, and this was extended to ALL USN war planes during the post-war period.

ANA 611 was created as a target for zinc chromate primer to be tinted to with black (and possibly aluminum paste) for UV resistance. ANA 611 paint wasn’t made, as such, primer was tinted to match this.

A terrific discussion can be found at the International Plastic Modelers, Stockholm, site:
http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2004/01/stuff_eng_interior_colours_us.htm

Published references listed by IPMS Stockholm include

  • Dana Bell – World War II US Aircraft Interior Colors, Fine Scale Modeler October 1997
  • Dana Bell – Air Force Colors, vol. 1-3
  • Robert D. Archer – The Official Monogram US Army Air Service & Air Corps Aircraft Color Guide
  • John M. Elliot – The Official Monogram US Navy and Marine Corps Aircraft Color Guide
  • Doll, Jackson, Riley – Navy Air Colors, Vol. 1, 1919-1945.
  • Dave Klaus – Color Cross-Reference Guide
  • Bert Kinzey – In Detail and Scale
  • Dana Bell, Lee Kolosna, William Reece, Larry Webster – various postings and articles

I own all of the above except Klaus’ book and can recomend them. Dana Bell’s USAAC books and the Doll, Jackson and Riley US Navy books are the most cost-effective, Jack Elliot’s four part USN and Marines reference is clearly a labor of love and manages to tell the official story without losing track of what was happening out in the real world. Archer and Archer are exhaustive but focus on the official version, not what was actually happening. . Kinsey gets in a few words about Bronze Green in his P-39 book.

Dana Bell has a terrific picture in one book showing 6 USAAC B-25s, each carrying a unique combination of camouflage, US national markings, RAF red-white-blue fin flashes and yellow or white aircraft numbers. Perhaps one of them matched the official orders du-jur, but paraphrasing him, “No two USAAC aircraft ever looked exactly the same”. A well considered opinion, well supported.

RAF WWII Paint Codes.

According to the Camouflage and Markings pamphlets from the 1960s, the WarPaint books and SAMI guides, the RAF used named paints in WWII. Common colors were:

Interior Gray Green. More ‘institutional’ than US Interior Green, it was a fuel proof-er for non-metalic structure.

Insignia White, Blue, Yellow, Gray. All about what you’d expect.

British Insignia Red, also called Brick Red. A dark red that didn’t compromise camouflage as much as the real thing.

British “Temperate Land Scheme” was:

Dark Earth & Dark Green upper surfaces
Aluminum paint, Aluminum with one wing Black and one White, Sky, Sky with one black wing, for undersurfaces

North African airplanes replaced Dark Green with “Mid Stone”, a yellow-beige, and used an Azure Blue underside, some versions darker and richer than others.

From late 1941, as air combat moved to higher altitudes, the Temperate scheme we re-worked to a Day Fighter Scheme, with the Dark Brown replaced by Ocean Gray or Mixed Gray, while the underside was done in Sea Gray, Medium.

Propeller tips and the wing leading edge outboard of the gun(s) were warning yellow.
RAAF Camouflage

There were three RAAF colors, similar but not exactly like the pre-war British Temperate scheme- a light blue for underside, a dark brown and a dark green (“Foliage Green”) for disruptive upper patterns. Polly Scale make them pre-mixed and ready to use. RAAF airplanes in WWII didn’y carry any red, including red ‘roos or red circles in roundels, etc, during the war. The result was roundels, fin-flashes, etc, in two tone blue – a pretty light blue in place of the white, and the blue carreid forward from RAAF.

Bell Aircraft Paint Specs + WW2

Bert Kinsey’s P-39 Aircobra In Detail and Scale has a discussion of Bell’s in-house Bronze Green, with an FS 595 number recomendation. I’ll try to remember to post it.

And the usual raft of thinning/airbrushing Testors Model Master Acryl/Vallejo paints, Bay Area hobby shops, train & RC specialists, etc. One about DuPont paints and WWII- at least I’ve already put up a link to all that I know about that subject!

british interiour wwii color silver

Any chance they got, from 1919 up to the later 1950s, the RAF would paint their airplanes with Aluminum paint. It wasn’t that they liked the ‘faux bare-metal’ look, it was the guaranteed opacity of the aluminum pigment- paint something Aluminum and ZERO U.V. light is going to get through and degrade it. And the Aluminum, while essentially gray in visible light, is lighter than most RAF Camouflage colors and thus reduced airframe temperature on sunny days. Thus, Aluminum was the default color for RAF airplane exteriors, and was used inside landing gear wells and doors, along with wheels, struts, etc. All painted with Aluminum paint, lacquer or dope depending on the underlying material. In the fullness of time, landing gear doors and wells usually became the color of the underside of the airplane, easier and neater that way, but gear legs stayed Aluminum until the Vulcan’s glossy black and the light grays/whites of the later 1960s. I’d expect Hunters and Lightnings would have Aluminum gear wells and door interiors, but that F-4K and Ms would have the same glossy white the USN, USMC and USAF got.

Of course, any USN planes operated by RAF or RN would likely keep their USN colors- overall Glossy Sea Blue for the P2V Neptunes, AEW TBMs and A1D Skyraiders in the 1950s, light gray, “interior green’ tinted zinc chromate primer, Bronze Green for WWII aircraft. (Its true Vought used zinc chromate primer with *indian red* pigment as an in-house spec… it was an odd, sorta-salmon, color… but RN mostly got Brewster-built F?B-1s which most people think are F4U-1s

how to paint models with washing
thinning water base paint

roots hobby hut oakland ca

bell p-39 raf modes

green zinc chromate

japanese navy colors

raf camoflage colors ww2

different names black paint

Revell 1/144 F-14 Daco Design

Tamiya Yellow Zinc Chromate mix

Deeply nerdy WWII RAF/USAAF/RAAF/Flying Tigers camouflage stuff: Flat Dark Earth Federal Standard.


A question that brought someone to this blog was “Flat Dark Earth Federal Standard”. I dunno if they got what they wanted, but its a deep, complex and somewhere between clear-eyed historical inquiry and a just plain nerdy subject.

“Dark Earth” is the name of an official British color during the 1930s and beyond. Federal Standard sounds like something reaching for US Federal Standard 595, a or b, the post 1950 standard for US government purchases, including airplanes for the military. Truth is, there isn’t a precise match between UK “Dark Earth” and either 1930s/40s A/N colors OR common FS 595 colors.

I’ve got a pointer to a nice site about FS 595 colors in another posting; here’s a great discussion of the relation between British paint (names and colors), what US manufacturers used to fulfill cash purchase and, later, Lend Lease, orders, US Army/Navy (A/N) colors compared to British colors, how airplanes made for foreign delivery were taken over by US forces or transferred from one foreign outfit to some other- French orders to the UK, UK orders to China, UK orders to USAAF.

http://forum.12oclockhigh.net/archive/index.php?t-6275.html

To answer the question quickly, the best source of “Dark Earth” I know is Polly Scale Dark Earth. Testor’s Model Master Dark Earth would be my second choice. I’m sure Gunze-Sangyo offer a Dark Earth and also Tamiya, though the Tamiya won’t be called “Dark Earth” and of course, Humbroil, Xtracolor and probably Revell Germany have one too.

None are matched to a “Federal Standard” number. There is a British Standard (there’s a “BS” and Lucas joke there…) that specifies colors for Her Majesty’s Government purchases, similar to US FS 595, and no doubt there’s a Dark Earth in the standard. But 95%, or more, of “Dark Earth” references will be to 1930s-1940s RAF colors or what US aircraft built for the UK used, and the various books I look through all specify the color by name, not by some BSC531c reference number. This doesn’t mean there wasn’t one, just that I don’t know it off the top of my head.

I’ve read that Bell Aircraft had a paint supplier who’s best attempt at “Dark Earth” was redder than the British version, and that this was the color that wound up on the early model P-39s, built to British standards, that were diverted to Guadalcanal and Australia, and designated “P-400” to differentiate them from US-spec P-39s. The link above suggests that Curtis had a good match, from Du Pont’s paint division, and that P-40s with Dark Earth looked very much like UK-built planes with Dark Earth.

How well Lockheed, North American, Boeing, and others, matched to British specs would be interesting to know.

Gotta go to work, happy modelling!