Category Archives: Model Building (hobby)

Humbrol paint references for Airfix 1/72 McDonnell-Douglas / BAe Harrier GR7A-GR9A, kit A04050


Humbrol paint references for Airfix 1/72 McDonnell-Douglas / BAe Harrier GR7A-GR9A, kit  A04050
Humbrol paint numbers; paint names; steps,

11; Metallic Silver; 31, 37, 38,
53; Metallic Gunmetal; 6, 9, 11, 13, 14,
56; Metallic Aluminum; 10, 12,

14; Gloss French Blue; 3

24; Matt Trainer Yellow; 1
30; Matt Dark Green;  2
33; Matt Black; 2, 3, 6, 31, 35, 37
61; Matt Flesh; 2
155; Matt Olive Drab; 1
156; Matt Dark Camouflage Gray; 45
159; Matt Khaki Drab; 2

85; Satin Coal Black; 1
130; Satin White; 4, 7, 8, 23, 24, 25, 31, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38,
165; Satin Medium Sea Gray; 2, 3, 4

– – – – – – – – – -========== * # * ===========- – – – – – – – – –

The Airfix instructions provide only Humbrol paint numbers for suggested colors. So I looked up the names and made a table of paints called out in the instructions, indexed by instruction page, construction step and color number. Its below, along with part numbers of what’s painted.

I’ve added some areas *to* color (ejection seat head box, breaking the seat cushion down into three different areas of color, for example) that seem non-controversial. They’re marked by a “- wba”. Airfix is not responsible for my contributions but I felt it was unfriendly to say nothing.

I don’t typically use Humbrol colors, so my next step will be cross-reference to the Polly Scale & Testors Model Master Acryl (II) acrylic colors. And Tamiya and Gunze Sangyo acrylics when they’re the better match.
Then I’ll add my own interpretation what additional areas should get attention. For example, ’24; Trainer Yellow;’ is called out for the parachute webbing/harness on the ejection seat head box. The actual color is a warm golden brown with a slightly metallic sheen- “Bronze” is one description. “Golden brown Martin Baker parachute webbing” would be my choice to name it.

Matt Black and Satin White are far to stark, in my opinion, so something lighter, and distinct, for black plastic, black painted metal, and tires, will be required, as will something duller for landing gear parts and bays, and the engine intake ducting. Stay tuned!

– – – – – – – – – -========== * # * ===========- – – – – – – – – –

Airfix 1/72 McDonnell-Douglas / BAe Harrier GR7A-GR9A
Page;  Step;  Paint;  Name;  Part no.;  Part name

3; 1; 85; Satin Coal Black; 20B 21B; ejection seat sides
3; 1; 85?; Satin Coal Black ;9B; ejection seat head box – wba
3; 1; ?; ;9B; ejection seat head box cushion – wba
3; 1; 24; Matt Trainer Yellow; 9B; ejection seat head box webbing
3; 1; 155; Matt Olive Drab; 9B; ejection seat back cushion
3; 1; 155?; Matt Olive Drab; 9B; ejection seat bottom cushion
3; 1; 155?; Matt Olive Drab; 9B; ejection seat calf cushion

3; 2; 30; Matt Dark Green; 14B; Pilot Helmet, lower garment
3; 2; 159; Matt Khaki Drab ; 14B; Pilot upper garment
3; 2; 33; Matt Black; 14B, 10C; Cockpit side consoles, Pilot Boot
3; 2; 61; Matt Flesh; 14B; Pilot face
3; 2; 165; Satin Medium Sea Gray; 10C; Cockpit bucket walls, floor

3; 3; 33; Matt Black; 3A, 27C; joystick grip, upper and lower instrument areas, left and right.
3; 3; 165; Satin Medium Sea Gray; 3A, 27C; joystick shaft, instrument panel blank faces
3; 3; 14; Gloss French Blue; 27C; CRT faces, left and right.

3; 4; 130; Satin White; 23A, 24; stbd & port forward fuselage nose gear well, Forward fuselage inner intake bulkhead
3; 4; 165; Satin Medium Sea Gray; 23A, 24; stbd & port forward fuselage cockpit sidewall

3; 6; 33; Matt Black; 28B; Engine intake behind fan…
3; 6; ?; ?; 28B; Inside of fan shroud – wba
3; 6; 53; Metallic Gunmetal; 29B; Engine fan – wba – titanium

3; 7; 130; Satin White; 51A, 52A; intake outer liners

3; 8; 130; Satin White; 15B, 3B; Main Gear well

4; 9; 53; Metallic Gunmetal; 23C,  25C; Port, Aft, hot, exhaust ducts

4; 10; 56; Metallic Aluminum; 19C, 21C; Port, Forward, cold, exhaust ducts

4; 11 53; Metallic Gunmetal; 24C, 26C; Starboard, Aft, hot, exhaust ducts

4; 12; 56; Metallic Aluminum; 20C, 22C; Starboard, Forward, cold, exhaust ducts

4; 13; 53; Metallic Gunmetal; 6A; Port, Hot exhaust shield

4; 14; 53; Metallic Gunmetal; 7A; Starboard, Hot exhaust shield

5; 23; 130; Satin White; (Step 5 output); Inner intake duct wall, starter/generator fairing

5; 24; 130; Satin White; 26A; inside of starboard outer intake duct;

5; 25; 130; Satin White; 25A; inside of port outer intake duct;

7; 31; 130; Satin White; 6B, 5B, 25B; Nose gear leg l&r, Nose wheel
7; 31; 33; Flat Black; 25B;  Nose tire
7; 31; 11; Metallic Silver; 6B, 5B; Nose gear leg l&r;

7; 33; 130; Satin White; 10B; Main gear forward door;

7; 34; 130; Satin White; 9C; Main gear leg;

7; 35; 130; Satin White; 26B, 27B; Main gear port & starboard wheel
7; 35; 33; Flat Black; 26B, 27B; Main gear port & starboard tire

7; 36; 130; Satin White; 43A, 44A, 41A, 42A; Nose gear bay port & starboard doors, Main gear port & starboard bay doors;

7; 37; 11; Metallic Silver; 31B, 30B; Outrigger gear oleo struts, port & starboard;
7; 37; 33; Flat Black; 31B, 30B; Outrigger gear tires;
7; 37; 130; Satin White; 31B, 30B; Outrigger gear legs, port & starboard;

8; 38; 11; Metallic Silver; 37A or 38A; Air Brake Hydraulic Cylinder
8; 38; 130; Satin White; 5A inside, 37A or 38A;  ; Airbrake, Air Brake Hydraulic Cylinder;

8; 45; 156; Matt Dark Camouflage Gray ; 23B, 24B; front of fired CRV-7 Rocket Pod.

– – – – – – – – – -========== * # * ===========- – – – – – – – – –

Humbrol paint numbers; steps:

24; Matt Trainer Yellow; 1
85; Satin Coal Black; 1
155; Matt Olive Drab; 1

30; Matt Dark Green;  2
33; Matt Black; 2
61; Matt Flesh; 2
159; Matt Khaki Drab; 2
165; Satin Medium Sea Gray; 2

14; Gloss French Blue; 3
33; Matt Black; 3
165; Satin Medium Sea Gray; 3

130; Satin White; 4
165; Satin Medium Sea Gray; 4

33; Matt Black; 6
53; Metallic Gunmetal; 6

130; Satin White; 7

130; Satin White; 8

53; Metallic Gunmetal; 9
56; Metallic Aluminum; 10
53; Metallic Gunmetal; 11
56; Metallic Aluminum; 12
53; Metallic Gunmetal; 13
53; Metallic Gunmetal; 14

130; Satin White; 23
130; Satin White; 24
130; Satin White; 25

130; Satin White; 31
33; Matt Black; 31
11; Metallic Silver; 31
130; Satin White; 33
130; Satin White; 34
130; Satin White; 35
33; Matt Black; 35
130; Satin White; 36
11; Matt Black; 37
33; Metallic Silver; 37
130; Satin White; 37

11; Metallic Silver; 38
130; Satin White; 38
156; Matt Dark Camouflage Gray; 45

– 30 –

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Dubshed 2012 – nice pictures!


A way, way cool photoblog. My favorite is the Golf 1 (aka Rabbit in USA) with the light blue and orance engine compartment.. looks like an air cleaner behind the head, and I don’t see any spark plug wires… diesel?  Wires and plugs on the back side with the intake and exhaust? Whatever. A very pretty job. Got the total “Euro” look going too – no bumper whatsoever. Mmm. Memory’s of my grandparent’s Karman Ghia – Anything that got past the bumper meant real bodywork with welding and painting…

Dubshed 2012.

Colors & materials for Apollo 11 CM, SM & LM. What the hardware looked like. For the Dragon kit.


Thanks to my beloved wife Jean, I got a Dragon Apollo 11 on the Moon kit, for Christmas! 1/72 scale, new tooling (same as their die-cast metal collectable?)

The short form on real, as-flown-in-1969, surfaces and finishes:

Command Module.

The actual Apollo Command module was covered with strips of mirror finish aluminized plastic micrometeoroid shield and thermal insulation, on the visible surfaces. The ablative heat shield, not visible until the CM and SM are separated, is said to have been painted a light gray color. During re-entry to Earth’s atmosphere, the mylar was mostly burned off and a light-gray painted structure under it became visible. Below that paint appears to have been a composite honeycomb material. I think it is unlikely that the actual pressure vessel that the crew lived in touched the outside surface except at the hatch edges.

In pictures of the remaining, unused, Apollo CSM (the emergency rescue vehicle for Skylab), you can see the stripe pattern of the plastic tape on the CM exterior, but in contemporary photographs, it looks like one piece of mirror polished aluminum. Like an American Airline’s jet airliner.

The fold-flat handles on the outside of the CSM, for astronaut Extra-Vehicular Activities (EVAs) were painted a glossy yellow, like the similar hand-rails on the the Hubble Space Telescope.

The docking capture and latch mechanism mounted on the outside of the tunnel, above the front hatch of the CM, is primarily titanium-looking metal, with a chromed, presumably retractable or spring loaded or damped, shaft.  There are darkened metal handles in the mechanism, probably painted or anodized a dark blue dark gray or black.

The inside of the tunnel itself, behind the docking capture mechanism, is light gray with 12 blue-anodized cylinder-topped arms at the top, some black and some other colors of boxes, and wires,

Service module:

The Service module exterior was  painted with an aluminum paint, except for radiator areas fore and aft which were white, two “ram’s horn” antennas that were white or light gray, and 24 narrow stripes (about 25%) on panels under the RCS thrusters. The area under “United States” may or may not have been light gray, and many labels on the exterior appear to be black text on light gray background.

The main engine exhaust bell is complex, but a bluish gray for the biggest, lower, part, outside, and reddish gray for the upper part, outside, is a good start. The top of the bell joins the reddish part at a flange, with bright bare metal fasteners by the dozen. The top of the bell, the last part visible beyond (below) the Inconel heat shield, is wrapped in the mylar and-or “H-film” ( aka “Kapton”) insulation and micrometeoroid shield. The back of the CM is mostly covered by 4 stamped quadrants what looks like thin Inconel nickel-copper high temp metal. The furthest outer edge of the end of the Service Module is painted with aluminum paint just like the sides.

Lunar Module:

The Lunar Module has two very different areas of finish: The descent (lower) stage is primarily wrapped in thermal insulation / micromedeoroid protection, a multilayer collection of  Kapton (“H film”) and Mylar, and other, exotic, things, with metal evaporated/ plated on them for protection. A lot of what looks ‘black’ is actually a black-finished foil or mylar.

The descent engine has a medium gray exterior and nestles in an Inconel-lined cavity in the descent stage.

The ascent (upper) stage of the Lunar Module is about half black-finished and half anodized Aluminum. Yes, the Aluminum looks like its dark, like Titanium, or has a distinct gray-beige-green tone. All true, many have remarked on the hard-to-describe colors. Grumman’s construction documents for the whole thing, facet by facet, are on line, and they specify Phosphoric acid and Sulfuric Acid anodizing of the various aluminum alloy pieces.  Some Mylar or “H film” wrapping is on the the outside of the ascent module. The ascent engine has a semi-gloss white exterior, with a textile-like “wrapped” texture. This may be thermal insulation, similar to the thick batts of insulation wrapped around the F1 engines of the Saturn V first stage.

There are two dish antennae on the ascent stage, Both have white-painted dishes and are generally black otherwise. The antenna directly above the lunar egress hatch and the front windows has black foil everywhere except the inside of the dish. The signal radiator in the center of the dish is white.

The antenna off on the starboard side of the ascent stage has a semi-gloss black mechanism and flat black on the back on the dish. Black, also, on the 4 legs and the forward reflector in front of the dish.

In more detail:

Command Module.

The Reaction Control System (RCS) engine nozzles on the CM have an oxidized copper color in their throats, and a slightly corrugated texture. Photos of post-re-entry CMs show a ring of the same oxidized copper color outside the nozzles, but the aluminized mylar covers these rings up to the edges of the RCS engine bells.

The forward and side windows for the two outside crew stations have black anti-glare finish around the windows, and red-orange silicone seals at every layer of the windows.

Below or behind the port side windows and the crossed RCS nozzles are a pair of drain valves, white 5/8 spheres with gold-toned dots at the outside. A very similar purge valve is installed on the starboard side of the side hatch.

On both sides, below windows, RCS nozzles, etc and the edge of the ablative re-entry shield, there are translucent white dots. Under the Mylar there are black partial circles around these two translucent circles,. On the Service Module, there are matching white partial circles painted on the fairing at the top edge of the SM

A minor (very minor) mystery is what kind of plastic the reflective stuff on the CM is. The expected temperature range in the space environment was wider than NASA was comfortable using Mylar, generally, uncovered, in the thermal insulation blankets covering the LM Descent Stage. Therefore, the outer layer of those blankets is always Kapton (“H film”), which is usable over the expected temperature range.  Of course, a blanket of up to 25 layers of plastic, using microthicknesses of vacuum deposited metal for insulation, is fundamentally different from a pressurized honeycomb structure wrapped with a layer of glued-on plastic tape. Maybe the thermal mass and inertia of the CM (and the slow-rolling passive thermal control regime) kept conditions on the outside of the CM suitable for Mylar, Maybe the CM plastic has the metal side “out”, unlike the majority of LM applications which are generally plastic side out (hence the gold-amber color: its not gold foil, its aluminized Kapton with the metal in and the plastic out.

Service module:

Inside the main engine exhaust bell is complex. At the bottom, inside the bluish gray outside, are 16 dark metal petals with strong textures. Inside the reddish-gray part of the bell are a set of 6 petals and then a solid ring- all a glossy dark color.  Above the dark, solid, ring, is a white metal ring, something like aluminum colored. Above that is an orangey brown and then at the peak of the engine is a light, metallic-finished plate with 5 stamped spokes and a central cap.

Lunar Module:

How I plan to reproduce these colors:

Command Module:

The glued-flat aluminized mylar on the real thing doesn’t look like any paint, even mirror polished aluminum. It looks like mylar, darker than polished aluminum. I have seen photos on-line of Apollo CMs finished in Bare Metal Foil, in the correct striped pattern. But I don’t see the stripes unless I look very closely in the 1960s photos- they’re easy to see in flash photos taken today, on the leftover CSM lifeboat for Skylab that never flew. But not in pictures of Apollo 11, or 15, or any of the other hardware that was flown.

Sooooo: Bare Metal Foil remains possible, or very thin aluminum foil, polished and clear-coated. “Chrome” spray paint would not be a bad choice. Having the kit part polished and then vacuum coated with aluminum would be very close to the real thing. Brush-painting Testor’s Chrome Silver oil-based paint or another similar non-water-based product is also a thought – the occasional brushmark could be said to represent the stripes of the Mylar…

“Chrome” spray paint or Metalizer Buffable Aluminum rattle can are the top two contenders at the moment. I’m going to do a study with each and see which I like more  watch this space.

Service Module:

Polly-scale Reefer White (that’s as in Refrigerator White, the rail-road color) is my call for the white paint on the lower and upper ring radiators, the two ‘tabs’ containing the ram’s horn antennas, and the white areas near the RCS boxes. My own mix for Boeing Aircraft Company #707 Gray is my first choice for the Light Gray RCS boxes, unless they’re white too, have to check again before I commit myself. The Inconel heat shield could be Polly Scale Stainless Steel, maybe with a bit of yellow added to bring out the nickel ‘color’… Inconel is a copper-nickel alloy and its attraction is that it holds its strength at high temperatures, not that its intrinsically tough stuff like titanium. It actually cuts and polishes pretty readily, but the important thing is that its clearly NOT aluminum. Completely different color. Not unlike stainless steel, which is, itself, not like steel OR aluminum.

Lunar Module:

Glad you asked: 1/32 model airplanes with working retractable landing gear. Working landing gear in general


Among the not so surprising list of searches that brought people to my blog, yesterdays list (below) included one dear indeed to my heart: “1/32 model airplanes with working retractable landing gear”

Ah yes, the great divide. Are we building scale models or toys? I come down firmly on the “toys” side, although many fine people I know personally are probably closer to scale modelers. I have to admit that almost any working feature of a model, particularly from a plastic kit, is going to compromise accuracy to some extent. Turning and propellers, wheels, maybe not so much. Opening doors, hatches? Mmmm, tricky. Retractable landing gear? Almost never truely ‘in scale’, but it HAS been done.

Personal experiences with working, retractable, landing gear:

1/32 Revell Supermarine Spitfire Mk I. Moving control surfaces and sliding canopy too.

1/32 Monogram North American P-51D Mustang. In “Phantom Mustang” or P-51 or F-51 form, this kit has retractable main gear and a tail wheel that are all actuated by turning a wheel on the belly. For the Phantom kit, an electric motor and gear train does the work. For the non-Phantom releases, the gear fixed to the plane becomes a knob to turn. Also comes with sliding canopy and bomb releases (again, under the belly for the controls in the pylon that the Phantom kit mounts on.)

1/32 Tamiya Mitsubishi A6M Riesen “type Zero” fighter. Tiny super-strong magnets are said to hold the moving pieces in place, and there’s a hidden socket for a crank to operate the gear… or so I have read.

1/32 Revell Grumman F4F-4 Wildcat. Not only retractable, the complex multi-link F3F and F4F setup that brought the wheels up to sit flush with the lower sides of the fuselage. I keep meaning to buy one of these and see how well it works…

1/32 planes that do NOT have working retractable landing gear:

1/32 Revell Hawker Hurricane I or “II” (its not a II and would take much effort- buy a 2 hand copy of the original Mk I kit if you want one of these…)

1/32 Revell Hawker/BAe Harrier / AV-8A. If I’d been in charge… but I wasn’t. Not retractible. The Airfix 1/24 kits has retractible gear, but other issues.

1/32 Revell Bristol Beaufighter. Alas, this would be a good place for a home-made setup, dead easy, but not the way they made the kit. Very much tooled to a price, with just about nothing in the fuselage (and no way to see it…) Still how cool is it to have this?!

Yesterday’s search terms.

x-4 bantam cockpit 2
light gull grey acrilico 2
islader 1/72 2
polly scale paints 2
tamiya u.s. interior green mix 2
thinning vallejo 26.526 1
mosquito de interior 1
how to dull the finish of a plastic model? 1
trislander 1
paint striper for plastic models 1
eclipse tptp vs netbeans profiler 1
water based model paint 1
bac 707 gray 1
hawk 75 cutaway 1
how long does it take to build plastic models 1
diluting water based paint for glaze 1
how to mix model paints 1
hobby shops in san francisco 1
“…the place god calls you to is the place where your deep gladness and the world’s deep hunger meet.” -frederick buechner 1
xf-56 1
tamiya spray paint solvents 1
future floor wax remover 1
building plastic model links 1
r/c car store in bay area 1
mosquito fuselage 1
elo easy lift off 1
sbd-5 camouflage 1
mosquito instrument panel 1
polly scale model railroads paints 1
airplanes painted black 1
who bought out hobby enterprises model airplane kits 1
deionized water acrylic paints 1
rc cars in bayarea 1
1/32 model airplanes with working retractable landing gear 1

One of my info posts was read in translation!


Someone looked at my “how to build a plastic model” info, translated into Slovenian. A little international flare there. Pretty cool!
Here’s what they clicked, you can see for yourself:
translate.google.sk/translate_p?langpair=en%7Csk&u=http%3A%2F%2Fbillabbott.wordpress.com%2F2009%2F12%2F24%2Fbuilding-plastic-models-how-to-tools-to-use%2F&usg=ALkJrhiJwzdWCKxaP7295DPBIebhlYgcxA 1

Well, I DO think its pretty cool and yes, I ought to be working on more career-work-related stuff. Next.

Bill

What the People want:


So, for example, here’s what brought people to my blog yesterday:
More editing tomorrow.

— Information pointed to from here:
mosquito bomb aimers position 23
boeing 707 gray 2
hobby store bay area 2
dh mosquito

— Information here for airplanes and other subjects for modelling:
mosquito bomb aimers position 23

— Information here for paint and finishing:
boeing 707 gray 2
how to sand down excess plastic modeling 2
how to thin model master acryl paint 2
remove decals to model aircraft 1
tamiya paint sets 1spraying with water based paint 1
water based paint diluters

— Information here about Bay Area hobby shops
hobby store bay area 2
san francisco rc plane shop 1

“wwii” and “model kit” and “kids” 2
“air international” magazine index 1

dh mosquito cockpit door 1
grumman f7f tigercat/cabin view 1
1
radio shack electric motor rf-500tb-182 1
thinning water based paint for spraying 1
tamiya acrylic remover 1
dh mosquito 1
model paint stripping 1
and dilute acrylic paints for models 1-20 y 1
boac mosquito 1
removing future floor wax 1

I— nformation *not yet*here
italeri c 27 1/72 2
spray paint for pots and pans 1
système de trim wheel en cockpit 1
misquito twin engine bomber three view 1
revell constellation lufthansa blue tamiya colours 1
cockpit/grumman tigercat/images 2

Project status Italeri 1/72 F-104G/S Starfighter


Italeri F104 G ‘S’Here’s the latest- I took this and the Revell TF 104G on vacation with me. I’d made a drawing that cartooned the instrument panel, based on the Verlinden Lock On book primarily. With that sketch in hand, I painted both kit’s cockpits and fiddly bits, and started gluing, I’ve got this 104’s major fuselage assembled, with cockpit and intakes. Needs wings, aft fuselage attached, so forth. Paint too. Here’s the latest photo of it: Italeri F-104G/S its not actually an S, just a G, no Sparrow or Aspide missile, though there is a pylon for it at least. Interior parts cruder than Revell/Monogram/Revell Germany kit, I’ve painted in parallel. Going to build it as an S and to heck with getting the aft fuselage and intake trunk bulky-ness correct. With an AIM-7-ish missile on the pylon and pretty Italian markings it will look great. Big issue is getting something like but not TOO like British Ocean Gray/Mixed Gray and Dark Green for topside- each nation in NATO has its own paint scheme and the fact that they often resemble the Dark Green, Ocean Gray/Medium Sea Gray Day Fighter scheme from WWII European theater doesn’t mean that exact color matches are in stock.