Links

My friend Eric’s blogs: http://techl2.blogspot.com/ – technology & language
http://cheeseandpear.blogspot.com/

My friend Gary’s blog, including a photo a day, he says 🙂
http://kentonroad.wordpress.com

My photos on flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/wbaiv/

My Facebook page: http://www.facebook.com/home.php?ref=home

The best model kit and accessory reviews: http://www.modelingmadness.com/

The best full-service airliner kit, decal, gizmo, book, video, etc.  store:http://www.airline-hobby.com/shop/index.cfm?action=DisplayMain

 

The best second-hand plastic kit source:  http://www.deanshobbystop.com/

Best explanation of the Unix/Linux “bc” pre-processor for “dc”. http://www.basicallytech.com/blog/index.php?/archives/23-command-line-calculations-using-bc.html Everything I was hoping to find in the man pages turned out to be here. And it sure is NOT in the man pages!

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5 responses to “Links

  1. Bill,

    If you want to add Facebook or email sharing buttons to your blog posts, there’s a plugin that does it for you: http://tinyurl.com/sharebuttons

    Hope you find it helpful!

    Cheers,
    Chase

  2. Hello, I am trying to spray ostrich eggs with water based metalic paints.
    The problem I am having is that I need it to dry in the fastest time possible without running.

    Have you any tips regarding mixing with water etc.

    Regards

    Ant Steffen

    • Two kinds of answers Ant, things I’ve done and things I’ve heard about.
      I have, personally, mixed isopropyl (“rubbing”) alcohol with Polly Scale acrylic paints and Future floor wax. I’ve mixed both Tamiya and Gunze-Sangyo acrylic paints with a mix of distilled water and isopropyl alcohol. The alcohol evaporates VERY quickly, the point being to get dilution but not having the work be ‘wet’ where the paint went on. In all cases, what I was trying to do was get the paint down to the consistancy of whole milk, which is said to be the ideal for airbrushing or spraying. I’ve used this dilution with both my Badger 250 paint sprayer and with a Pasche V or H (whichever has the finer line)
      In all cases, the water/alcohol mixture didn’t appear to hurt the paint in any way. I must note that both the Tamiya and Gunze Sangyo paints have a complex (and different) thinning system, a mix of some alcohol more complicated than just isopropyl, and some water. Both companies sell a thinner and its a good investment if you’re going to work with their paints.

      I have HEARD that lacquer thinner (!) can be mixed with acrylic paints and will ‘flash’ dry in seconds. I have never done this, but it makes sense… provided the thinner doesn’t do something wierd to the chemistry of your acrylic paint. I’d test that assumption very carefullly before using the technique on something I cared about.

      I don’t know what brand of acrylic metallic you’re using, I would try water, isopropyl alcohol, any thinner the maker of the paint recommends, and lacquer thinner if I had good ventilation. The point of thinning paint is to allow it to come out of the sprayer or off the brush in a fine, thin, form. Once its on the work, the point of thinner is to allow the paint to penetrate the surface, spread over the surface and dry slowly, so that a smooth, level, surface is formed. Using a ‘hot’ thinner like lacquer thinner will give you a nice liquid to spray, but that liquid may be nearly dry by the time it gets to the work. A ‘cool’ thinner like water will give a good spraying consistancy, but will also build up on the work, slow drying, allow the paint to conform to the work and penetrate texture or material to some extent.

      All kinds of people will give you all kinds of opinions on the internet, the real deal is to do some experiments, yourself, maybe starting with chicken eggs. I’d be facinated to learn how it goes.

    • Hi Ant,
      How did the ostrich eggs go? Did you try any thinners?

      Bill

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