Comments on: Thinning, mixing, spraying and ‘washing’ with water-based model paints http://billabbott.wordpress.com/2008/01/29/thinning-mixing-spraying-and-washing-with-water-based-model-paints/ words, music, cars, computers, model airplanes, parenthood, politics, photography, film, tv, books (I'm a recreational user of all of these...) Wed, 16 Dec 2009 00:47:19 +0000 http://wordpress.com/ hourly 1 By: Bill Abbott http://billabbott.wordpress.com/2008/01/29/thinning-mixing-spraying-and-washing-with-water-based-model-paints/#comment-177 Bill Abbott Wed, 26 Nov 2008 21:18:31 +0000 http://billabbott.wordpress.com/?p=15#comment-177 Boy oh boy I'd love that too. In Openoffice Draw and no doubt other programs, there's a meny to change colors, which offers-0-255 values for Red, Green and Blue color in youro display. If you have the patience to learn it, this is a good way to test basic color blends. But you'd have to lguess at Red, Green and Blue values, at least to start. Boy oh boy I’d love that too. In Openoffice Draw and no doubt other programs, there’s a meny to change colors, which offers-0-255 values for Red, Green and Blue color in youro display.
If you have the patience to learn it, this is a good way to test basic color blends. But you’d have to lguess at Red, Green and Blue values, at least to start.

]]> By: mike http://billabbott.wordpress.com/2008/01/29/thinning-mixing-spraying-and-washing-with-water-based-model-paints/#comment-176 mike Tue, 25 Nov 2008 21:21:50 +0000 http://billabbott.wordpress.com/?p=15#comment-176 All I want is A web site to go to to show me if I enter different colors what will the final color look like. Based on ratios and not based on brands but thats ok too. I build plastic models. thamks mike All I want is A web site to go to to show me if I enter different colors what will the final color look like. Based on ratios and not based on brands but thats ok too. I build plastic models.
thamks
mike

]]> By: Bill Abbott http://billabbott.wordpress.com/2008/01/29/thinning-mixing-spraying-and-washing-with-water-based-model-paints/#comment-102 Bill Abbott Wed, 04 Jun 2008 03:56:34 +0000 http://billabbott.wordpress.com/?p=15#comment-102 Hi Nick, Three suggestions: 1) There is a pale green liquid paint remover sold in the model railroad section of your local hobby shop that certainly removes Testor's gloss spray paints. That's what I used my bottle on, and it worked great. Soak a bit, then apply an old toothbrosh and watch the old paint fall off. Afrter filtering out the old paint, the liquid looked perfectly re-usable. Probably it has a lifetime but I was impressed. Model Railroad people buy painted stuff and strip it all the time, so it seems like a natural. I used gloves when doing this and recomend eye protection as well. I wear glasses. 1.1) There are also orange/citrus oil-based paint strippers now on the market, and I've got some and I'll test it out.Should be just the stuff- bust up the dried enamel paint but not harm the plastic. 2) I have been told that oven cleaner (lye I'd expect) does a similar job. I believe it. FOR SURE I'd use gloves and eye protection... I might do the deed IN a heavy plastic bag too. Can't be too safe with Lye. 3) I have used Windex amonia-based glass cleaner to strip Future floor wax (aka Kleer) with great success. I've also seen it attack Gunze Sangyo acrylic paint and I'd expect you could strip it with any household amonia. The stuff never really seems to dry, to me, so its not completely surprising it comes off easy. - Along this same line, Tamiya make a thinner for their acrylic paint that's some interesting alcohols and it will remove dry paint. - And I'm told denatured (ethyl) alcohol will strip Polly Scale acrylic, which I've tested on small scale and been reasonably happy with. - And finally, comon paint thinner may remove straight oil-based enamel paint. No need for the extreme paint strippers or removers. Just some thinner, a plastic bag, some old tooth brushes. I'd probably close the bag and work *through* it. So there are three steps to try before sanding. And I have to say, having sanded more than one paint coat off, or at least down, that wet dry paper in high numbers, with plenty of water, and a flat surface, isn't the worst thing I've ever done to a model. I wouldn't care to make a practice out of it, but for whatever reason you want paint off (wrong color, build-up or unwanted texture) a careful wet-dry pass can be the basis of a fairly good final coat. You'll lose rivets and raised details, of course. But paint is usually softer than plastic, and the big problem I've had sanding it off is the build-up in my sanding medium. Hence wet dry and lots of water. I guess I ought to paint something and then strip it :^) Hi Nick,
Three suggestions:
1) There is a pale green liquid paint remover sold in the model railroad section of your local hobby shop that certainly removes Testor’s gloss spray paints. That’s what I used my bottle on, and it worked great. Soak a bit, then apply an old toothbrosh and watch the old paint fall off. Afrter filtering out the old paint, the liquid looked perfectly re-usable. Probably it has a lifetime but I was impressed. Model Railroad people buy painted stuff and strip it all the time, so it seems like a natural. I used gloves when doing this and recomend eye protection as well. I wear glasses.

1.1) There are also orange/citrus oil-based paint strippers now on the market, and I’ve got some and I’ll test it out.Should be just the stuff- bust up the dried enamel paint but not harm the plastic.

2) I have been told that oven cleaner (lye I’d expect) does a similar job. I believe it. FOR SURE I’d use gloves and eye protection… I might do the deed IN a heavy plastic bag too. Can’t be too safe with Lye.

3) I have used Windex amonia-based glass cleaner to strip Future floor wax (aka Kleer) with great success. I’ve also seen it attack Gunze Sangyo acrylic paint and I’d expect you could strip it with any household amonia. The stuff never really seems to dry, to me, so its not completely surprising it comes off easy.
- Along this same line, Tamiya make a thinner for their acrylic paint that’s some interesting alcohols and it will remove dry paint.
- And I’m told denatured (ethyl) alcohol will strip Polly Scale acrylic, which I’ve tested on small scale and been reasonably happy with.
- And finally, comon paint thinner may remove straight oil-based enamel paint. No need for the extreme paint strippers or removers. Just some thinner, a plastic bag, some old tooth brushes. I’d probably close the bag and work *through* it.

So there are three steps to try before sanding. And I have to say, having sanded more than one paint coat off, or at least down, that wet dry paper in high numbers, with plenty of water, and a flat surface, isn’t the worst thing I’ve ever done to a model. I wouldn’t care to make a practice out of it, but for whatever reason you want paint off (wrong color, build-up or unwanted texture) a careful wet-dry pass can be the basis of a fairly good final coat. You’ll lose rivets and raised details, of course. But paint is usually softer than plastic, and the big problem I’ve had sanding it off is the build-up in my sanding medium. Hence wet dry and lots of water.

I guess I ought to paint something and then strip it :^)

]]> By: nick http://billabbott.wordpress.com/2008/01/29/thinning-mixing-spraying-and-washing-with-water-based-model-paints/#comment-101 nick Wed, 28 May 2008 11:10:53 +0000 http://billabbott.wordpress.com/?p=15#comment-101 Old and gray as I am, I still have to find a way of effectively removing an applied paint without causing catastrophic damage to the underlying plastic sho rt of sanding until all detail has been obliterated Old and gray as I am, I still have to find a way of effectively removing an applied paint without causing catastrophic damage to the underlying plastic sho rt of sanding until all detail has been obliterated

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